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French onion soup, French women chefs: les mères à lyonnaises, Montpellier, Paris, soupe à l'oignon, The Way to Cook by Julia Child
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By Michelle Hum
Ten minutes into making dinner in my apartment, I was fighting to hold back tears. Admittedly, these were mostly a result of the small mountain of onions I had just chopped. However, part of me was reminiscing about the last time I had this meal. On a chilly May afternoon, I was enjoying the sweet aroma of French onion soup inside a café in Paris.
After a whirlwind tour of Europe over spring break, my friends and I parted ways and I found myself alone in Paris waiting for my train to take me to my French home in Montpellier. With four hours to kill, I decided to wander around the Gare de Lyon for somewhere to pass the time and possibly get something to eat, having missed breakfast that morning. After passing several pricey brasseries, I finally settled on a nice little café nestled in one of the many side streets surrounding the train station.
Inside away from the cool spring air, I settled in with a book and ordered a cup of soupe à l’oignon. The wooden benches and natural lighting made the restaurant feel especially cozy. Sitting across from the windows looking out to the street, I occasionally glanced up from my book to admire the Parisians starting to come out for their lunch hour.
When the waitress, clad in all black, delivered my soup to the table, the cheese atop of the toasted bread was still bubbling. Before even lifting a spoonful of the warm soup to my lips, I could smell the sweet, caramelized onions, dry wine, and rich broth carried with the steam rising from my bowl. With the first taste—serendipity.
Although French onion soup may be an iconic French dish in the minds of many Americans, we can actually thank the American chef Julia Child for its popularity. Through her show and cookbooks, Julia brought this dish into the kitchens of Americans everywhere.
Food often has a way of transporting us to a special place or special moment. Although French Onion soup may only be an American creation of French elegance, I will always have the memory of sitting in a Parisian café eating my French Onion Soup on that cold May afternoon.
For dinner, I used Julia Child’s recipe from The Way to Cook, by Julia Child.
RECIPE FOR FRENCH ONION SOUP: soupe à l’oignon
Ingredients
– 1/2 stick butter
– 1 tbsp olive oil
– 8 cups thinly sliced onions (about 2-1/2 pounds)
– 1/2 tsp salt
– 1/2 tsp sugar
– 1 tbsp flour
– 8 cups homemade beef stock, or good quality store bought stock
– 1/4 cup Cognac, or other good brandy
– 1 cup dry white wine
– 8 (1/2-inch) thick slices of French bread, toasted
– 3/4 pound coarsely grated Gruyere
Directions
Heat a heavy saucepan over moderate heat with the butter and oil. When the butter has melted, stir in the onions, cover, and cook slowly until tender and translucent, about 10 minutes. Blend in the salt and sugar, increase the heat to medium high, and let the onions brown, stirring frequently until they are a dark walnut color, 25 to 30 minutes.
Sprinkle the flour and cook slowly, stirring, for another 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from heat, let cool a moment, then whisk in 2 cups of hot stock. When well blended, bring to the simmer, adding the rest of the stock, Cognac, and wine. Cover loosely, and simmer very slowly 1 1/2 hours, adding a little water if the liquid reduces too much. Taste for seasoning
Divide the soup among 4 ovenproof bowls. Arrange toast on top of soup and sprinkle generously with grated cheese. Place bowls on a cookie sheet and place under a preheated broiler until cheese melts and forms a crust over the tops of the bowls. Serve immediately.
Michelle Hum is a self-proclaimed Francophile and foodie. Michelle has been fortunate enough to visit countries on three continents and live in France during a semester abroad. Food has become very important to Michelle as she tries to stay connected with many of the cultures she has experienced. A student at the University of Minnesota pursuing double majors in Psychology and Advertising and a minor in French, Michelle advises the digital aspects for A Woman’s Paris. Outside of school, you can find her perfecting her signature white chocolate fruit tarts and other treats.
You may also enjoy A Woman’s Paris® post, Indulge at Le Meurice Hôtel, Paris, by Parisian Eva Izsak-Niimura who shares how to achieve a bit of luxury at Le Meurice Hôtel, Paris for afternoon tea or evening cocktails, when “constraint” is a word more in vogue than “indulgence.”
Boulangerie Poilâne: A toast to French Breads, by Barbara Redmond who shares her face-to-face encounter with a French baker during her visit to the 18th century ovens of Poilâne in Paris. Could she steal a pinch from the raw, soft-white boule in its proofing basket resting close by? The penetrating aromas of bread; strong, yeasty, and hot… Recipes included for Tartine Chocolat et Poivre (tartine of melted chocolate and black pepper) and La tartine For’bon (tartine of cheeses and ham) from Boulangerie Poilâne.
For the love of yaourt (yogurt), by Michelle Hum who writes about her love of French yaourt: a tangy, creamy, dairy product that can stand by itself —although a dab of honey or handful of fresh fruit never hurts. Recipe included for Gateau au Yaourt au et au Citron (Lemon Yogurt Cake) by Ina Garten.
Pain Perdu: Childhood love of French custard and bread, by Barbara Redmond who shares her discovery of pain perdu (French toast), from the boulangerie pâtisserie Calixte in Île St. Louis, Paris. Barbara experiences French toast as a favorite treat eaten in the gardens of Notre Dame in an air of whimsy and childhood delight. Recipe included for “original French toast,” made by Christophe Raoux of L’École de Cuisine d’Alain Ducasse for Mark Schatzker, ABC News explore.
Asparagus, Best in April, by Michelle Hum who shares the first time she tried the very best white asparagus from Alsace as a student living in Montpellier, France. An unforgettable dish of asparagus dressed with a simple olive oil, balsamic, mustard vinaigrette. Recipe included for white asparagus by Alsatian Chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten from Food & Wine magazine.
Tartiflette: French Comfort Food, by Michelle Hum who shares a traditional French hot dish enjoyed during ski season in the Alps as a form of warm, savory comfort. Tartiflette: a French dish of potatoes, bacon, and Reblochon cheese. Recipe and video guide included courtesy of Head Chef of London’s Coq d’Argent, Michael Weiss, who provides his own version of this Alpine specialty.
Text copyright ©2012 Michelle Hum. All rights reserved.
Illustration copyright ©2012 Barbara Redmond. All rights reserved.
barbara@awomansparis.com
2 comments
Mary said:
January 9, 2012 at 11:26 am
I recently had a lovely bowl of onion soup here in Minneapolis, at Patrick’s on 66th Street. Always so comforting. Did you now that Julia Child’s last meal was onion soup made by her assistant? The touching story of her last days is told in Laura Shapiro’s “Julia Child” (A Penguin Life).
Barbara Redmond, A Woman’s Paris™ said:
January 9, 2012 at 12:01 pm
Mary,
Thank you for your comment and for following our blog. I will stop by Patrick’s and order their onion soup.
Best wishes in the new year,
Barbara